I am a huge fan of soup. It is the first meal I made solo at the age of five. Yes, I was five- you can read all about it here. My mom made this soup frequently and she taught me how.
Soup comes in so many forms ranging from extremely difficult to super simple. What we called homemade soup is super simple. Because I only know how to make soup in a large quantity, I often freeze portions in quart size freezer bags. This soup reheats well making it a great option for daily lunches. This recipe is very flexible making a great way to repurpose leftovers such as pot roast or pinto beans.
Recipe for Homemade Soup
1 lb. of ground meat or ground turkey 1/2 cup chopped onion 3 medium potatoes peeled and chopped 2-3 cups of mixed veggies- any kind you like 1- 13 once can of stewed tomatoes 1/2 tsp poultry seasoning 1 tsp ground sage 1 tsp cumin Salt and pepper to taste
In medium skillet, brown the ground met with the onions.
In an 8 quart stock pot or Dutch oven (you can use a larger stock pot- then you don’t have to worry about over-filling) bring water and potatoes to a boil. Add enough water to boil the potatoes, but not so much that you have to pour a lot off, because the water does have lots of nutrients in it. If you are using fresh or frozen veggies, add them now. Boil until the potatoes are fork tender. Add the ground meat, stewed tomatoes and veggies- if you are using canned or leftovers. Add seasonings and more water or broth as needed to achieve the desired consistency. Bring to a boil and simmer for 15-20 minutes then let cool a bit. This soup is great with cornbread or crackers.
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It’s time to grow lettuce. It has been since September, actually. The thing about lettuce and other similar greens is that they need to be planted in succession. One planting is never enough! If you plant one crop and then follow it with another crop then you always have lettuce in the prime picking stage (succession planting). The weather may have turned cool, but the soil temperatures are plenty warm enough to cause Lettuce seed to germinate.
Now, you may be thinking, “Why bother?”
There are some nasty rumors going around about lettuce. I hear that it is really hard to grow with lots of insect problems. It has also been said that lettuce grown in Texas tastes bitter because of the heat. Lies, all of them.
The misinformation comes from the fact that the instructions on the back of seed packets and those great little farming magazines are written for folks living in the areas of the country that actually have four seasons and one growing season. Now do not misunderstand me, I love my gardening magazines, but the time lines do not line up. Well, welcome to Texas Gardening. There is a rhythm to gardening in Texas that is as unique as our Texas spirit. Once you learn the rhythm you will be amazed at what you can grow.
However, for now we will focus on lettuce and its cousins. It perturbs me to no end to have to purchase greens of any kind in the grocery store. Homegrown greens are so easy and tasty! Also, it is so much easier to have a bed of lettuce and just go pick you some whenever you want, than to have to go to the store when you want a salad. If you are like me, lots of times what’s for dinner is not something planned very far in advance. So, having items growing in the garden to have on hand is just the ticket.
One of the perks about lettuce and all the other greens, such as arugula, chard, spinach, etc. is that they can by eaten at all stages. Baby greens make for a scrumptious salad or sandwich. Many people, like my children, do not like mature spinach but love baby spinach. So, while the plants are growing you can pick the outer leaves and enjoy the garden abundance for many weeks. The greens( the term greens refers to all types of lettuce, herbs, kale, greens, spinach etc.) do not take a lot of space. One 5X12 foot bed of greens will keep a family of 6 in fresh greens. If there is only one or two of you, then a container that can hold 3-4 mature plants at a time is sufficient.
Now to dispel the lies.
First, that lettuce is hard to grow. Not so, you just have to know when to plant it. If you read many of the labels on lettuce sold in Texas, the labels say to plant after all danger of frost has passed. The problem with this is that if you wait that long in Texas you can have as little as 2 weeks until the temps are consistently in the mid- 80′s. The proper planting times in Texas are February- April and September- December. Lettuce is a cool season crop. When most areas of the country are having dead of winter, we are having our cool season. When we have had a mild winter, I harvest greens from September until June. That is only 2 months of store-bought greens in a year. That makes my heart happy!
The second lie is that lettuce has many insect problems. Now there are certain worms- Cabbage Loppers for example- that do like lettuce. However, these are easily dispatched with Bt. Bt- (Bacillus thuringiensis) is a naturally occurring bacterial disease that only attacks caterpillars. Bt is organic and you can eat the produce with no worries that synthetic pesticides bring. There are other insects that can be a problem at times, but I have found in my gardens that Bt is all I need to keep things in balance. Also, there are other methods of insect control, but again the Bt is simple, easy and effective so that is what I use. You can find it at most hardware and garden supply stores.
Lastly, lettuce grown in Texas tastes bitter- hogwash. Again, you just need to know when to plant and what varieties to plant. The types that are considered “slow to bolt” are the best for planting in the spring. Bolting refers to sending up a conical shaft with blooms that will produce seeds. Warm weather signifies to the lettuce that it is time to make seeds. So, those lettuces that are slow to bolt will be the most tolerant of warm weather. While you are looking in seed catalogs for heirloom selections (heirloom refers to varieties that will reproduce consistently if the seeds are saved) look for ones that were developed in Louisiana, Arkansas, Texas- of course- or Israel. These areas have climates similar to ours and those varieties will usually do well here for the summer planting. Look for varieties labeled “Cool season” or “cold tolerant” on the lettuces, these will be the one for planting in the fall. When it comes to the spinach, swiss chard, and kale- these are not even stopped by a freeze so they will grow all winter.
Some of my favorite varieties are: For Fall Planting: Black Seeded Simpson, Drunken Woman, Tom Thumb, Oakleaf For Spring Planting: Oakleaf, Jericho- awesome, Tom Thumb Spinach- Longstanding Bloomsdale is great year round.
Most of your annual herbs like dill, Salad Burnett, chives are best planted on the same schedule as lettuce. I like to sow the seeds in wide beds. I thin the seedlings and use them in salads as baby greens. Keep the lettuce or greens watered one inch once per week and a little shade is very helpful for extending the growing season in the summer. The seeds usually germinate and emerge in 7-10 days.
So there you have it- the truth about lettuce. Now what are you waiting for? September is coming to a close and October is upon us, I can just taste the homegrown lettuce now.
When thinking of gardening, cooking, eating healthy, one cannot get away from the beauty and necessity of herbs. Regardless of your goal- to grow healthy food for you and your family, to attract butterflies, to make your gardens beautiful or to simply delight your senses- herbs fit the bill.
For the most part, herbs are perennials and hardy. Even in our erratic weather patterns in Texas, herbs have performed very well for me and have brought me much satisfaction and joy. As with most fresh food, when you have tasted the flavors of fresh sage, thyme, rosemary and more- you can never go back to the herb dust you can purchase off the shelves in the supermarkets. The taste is just so amazing. And by fresh, I also mean the herbs harvested and dried by your own hands.
And just to clarify a few terms:
Herbaceous– means that a plant dies back to the ground in winter, but comes back each spring. You can have plants that are not herbs but are herbaceous and Herbs that are not herbaceous!
Perennial– a plant that returns year after year, can be evergreen or herbaceous.
Below is a tip sheet that will help you get stated in the wonderful world of herbs.
Many more articles on particular herbs and gardening are located in the Herb Category and in the Organic Gardening Category.
Herbs- From Garden to Table
What To Plant Where
A large majority of herbs are perennials and biennials, so they will be with you for quite a while when choosing herbs:
Consider their origin- did they come from wooded areas, desert areas, wet areas etc. and group like plants together.
Consider water requirements of each plant
Consider growth habits: height, cold hardy, heat tolerant, upright or rambler, etc.
Consider their function:
For culinary use- what and how do you cook
Attract pollinators or repel insects
Or just for looks
Each of these points will help you determine where in your garden to locate the plants. Obviously, a water loving herb does not need to be planted with Rosemary and Lavender as these herbs prefer a very dry climate. If you consider these aspects before you plant everyone will benefit.
What Herbs are good for our area of Texas
Thyme- creeping lemon*
Sage- Salvia Officinalis*
Lavender- English and Fern Leaf*
Basil- all kinds
Salad Burnett *
Garlic (plant in September)
The list goes on as there are so many, but these will get you off to a good start!
*- good for planting in fall as they grow all year long
Now To Table
Use Fresh- simply snip and use- sprinkle chopped herbs in your dishes while cooking or on top as a garnish.
Cut and tie in bundle (rubber bands work great!)
Hang to dry or dry in oven on low or a hot car
Grind and store- chop in blender, store in jars in a cool dark place like a pantry.
Herbed Oils or Vinegars- place herbs in clean jar and cover with oil or vinegar and let steep for 3 weeks. Strain and store in a cool dark place.
Fall is prime time for planting trees, shrubs, & roses. The heat of summer has passed and the cooler weather stimulates root growth. This root growth gives the plants a great start to the growing system and provides them with a buffer to withstand a Texas summer.
Any type of tree, not just fruit trees, should be planted in fall. Shrubs include blueberry bushes, elderberry bushes, and other fruiting bushes. Fall planting is also great for roses as well.
When choosing any plant, but especially fruiting trees and shrubs, you must make certain that you choose a variety that is right for this area. Soils can change with just a distance of 30 miles and chilling hours are quite different from the Red River down to the Texas coast. Chilling hours refers to the amount of time in the winter where temperatures stay between 32 and 45 degrees. So, by choosing varieties that have the lowest required amount of chilling hours you can be sure that the trees will set fruit even when we have a mild winter.
You might think that if you are shopping locally that you will be finding choices that are right for this locale. Sadly, that is not always the case. You will need to do a little homework so you know that varieties that you need. Many times, especially at the big box stores, the stock they carry may have been shipped from five states away or more. Also, if you have ever tried to ask a gardening question to one of their employees, you most likely found that they did not know any more than you did. The best place to shop is at a local nurseries that have knowledgeable staff (like The Farm On Holly’s Hill!).
Below are lists of varieties that are well suited for this area. There are also links to websites with really good information about varieties, planting, and maintenance of your trees and shrubs. These selections are based on the most popular items I am asked for, but there are so many choices among fruit producing trees and shrubs. So, don’t be boxed in try your hand at Papaws, Mayhaws, or JuJubes. The extension websites have lots of great information on these more unusual selections.
For those of us with shady yards, gardening can be frustrating. For years I beat my head against a wall planting things that might make it. After I grew up and stopped trying to force the gardens to look like I thought they should and let the conditions dictate what should be planted, I found that there are some very nice selections for shade. Some of these may take a little hunting, but the search is worth it.
AZALEA- Most found in this area are evergreen and bloom in the spring. These shrubs range in size from 3′ to 15′ tall, so check the variety before you plant. All Azaleas like acidic soil. If you live in East Texas and have pines or oak trees- you have the right soil most likely. Let the needles and leaves act as a natural mulch- these will break down and add acid to the soil, organic matter & retain moisture. Prune if needed just after blooming in late spring/early summer. Encore is a hybrid that will bloom more than once a year.
CAMELLIA- These beauties bloom in winter through early spring- depending on the variety. Being evergreen, these add a lot of color in winter and a lovely backdrop for summer flowers. The old standards can get quite large. Pruning will keep these to the size you need. The C. sasanqua hybrids are smaller and bloom in fall- September through December. Again, if you have oaks and pines you have the soil needed for these plants. Camellias do not do well if they are dry, so keep them moist. Letting nature do the mulching with fallen leaves and needles will take care of the moisture and acid.
MOUNTAIN LAUREL- A native woodland shrub does grow in full shade. However, the more sun it gets the more blooms that will cover the plant in spring. If the shrub gets too leggy, cut it back to the base branches of the shrub. You can also pinch back the new growth just after blooming.
PARTIAL SHADE: This means some light is hitting the plants. Full sun is defined as at least 6hrs/day. Any less than this is partial shade.
BARBERRY- Beautiful colored leaves, tiny blossoms and small edible berries make this shrub very useful. Heights range from 2′-6′ depending on the species. Thorns do line the stems of this shrub, so consider where you will be planting. The thorns and berries make this an excellent choice for wildlife planting. If the shrub gets too leggy, just prune it. Barberry responds well to pruning. The more sun the more dramatic the color you will have.
NANDINA- Versatile and easy going, this shrub grows well in woodland settings. There are many varities so pay close attention to the size of the variety you choose. Easy to grow, most species produce red berries in the fall. As trees shed their leaves and allow light to hit the leaves of the Nandina- the Nandina produce beautiful color on the leaves- these are evergreens.
With fall having just begun- even if you haven’t felt it yet- the urge to decorate for all the holidays grows strong!
The most popular plant for fall decorating is the Mum. With the happy little faces in an array of colors, its easy to see why.
Mums are easy to get- but not easy to keep looking beautiful.
Here are four things you can do to keep your pretty plants looking their best.
Consistent water. This can be tricky because the plants dry out so fast. One reason for this is because there may be as many as four plants in one pot. The nurseries will pot up multiple plants to get the pots full and big fast. So, one way to help with this is to put a tray under the plant and water every day. Also, many times the posts are in full sun on concrete or a porch. Heat is reflected from these surfaces so the plants will use the water faster. Water in the morning to avoid fungus.
Fungus- by using a fungicide on the plants you will keep them healthy. Follow the directions on the bottle. Most fungicides are a liquid and are sprayed on the plants. Choose an organic fungicide. A homemade fungicide is 1 tsp baking soda mixed in 1 gallon of water.
Feed the plants. As I mentioned, there are serval plants competing for moisture and nutrients in the pot. By using a liquid fertilizer weekly, you will get more growth and more blooms. Organic fertilizer like compost tea is best.
Dead head the plants. Dead heading a plant is to remove the spent blossoms. Mums are no different than other blooming flowers. They are working to make seeds. To get more blooms, pinch or cut off the faded blooms. This will encourage new growth and more blooms.
If you follow these tips, your mums can easily last October through November- maybe longer. Once the season is over, you can plant the mums in the garden. They are perennials.
This is probably the question I am asked most often. I couldn’t pick a favorite herb- possibly a Top 10 list, but never a favorite.
Rosemary is an herb that would ALWAYS be on this list and very likely in the #1 spot. The reasons are many- from ease of growing to the powerful medicinal benefits- but for sake of time, I will narrow it down to five reasons you will love Rosemary.
#1 Rosemary loves heat.
I have always gardened in Texas and it is ALWAYS hot in the summer. Rosemary doesn’t care, in fact- it likes it! Because Rosemary hails from hot, arid conditions in Northern Africa and the Mediterranean, its DNA makes it perfect for Texas gardens and the great majority of the United States.
#2 Rosemary Protects Against Alzheimer’s
Rosemary may also become useful in preventing and treating Alzheimer’s disease in the near future. Researchers have discovered that certain phytochemicals in the herb prevent the degradation of acetylcholine, an important brain chemical needed for normal neurotransmission. A deficiency of this chemical is commonly seen in Alzheimer’s patients. See full article here
I, personally, am not waiting for all the test results, I have started including rosemary in our family’s diet on a daily basis. An easy way to use rosemary medicinally is in a tincture.
#3 Rosemary Makes A Great Hedge
Rosemary can be utilized as a shrub. If you are feeling creative, rosemary can be shaped into topiary. But more simply, plant as a hedge and trim like any other landscape hedge- except save the clippings and make a tincture!
Rosemary is heat and drought tolerant so it saves on water usage. Very few pest or fungal problems exist with rosemary.
It blooms! Very pretty light blue flowers appear in spring and continue for several weeks. Some years, rosemary will bloom again in the fall.
#4 Bees LOVE Rosemary
Its becoming common knowledge (THANK GOD) that our bee population is in trouble and if the bees go, we go. Two of every three bites we eat are pollinated by bees. As we have said, Rosemary needs little care and won’t need spraying of any kind to look beautiful, so it is a great choice for feeding bees, butterflies and a whole host of beneficial insects. So, plant some rosemary for the bees. Don’t worry about getting stung, the bees have way too much work to do to worry over you.
#5 Rosemary Will Make You A Great Cook
Well, I may be over-selling rosemary’s abilities just a bit. However, it can’t hurt. Rosemary can transform a dull chicken or homely sweet potato into something fantastic with very little effort. Just sprinkle the chopped rosemary in the pot and – VIOLA!
Not only does rosemary taste great, but by adding it to your food you are taking advantage of the health benefits and those are many:
Rosemary leaf is used in Europe for indigestion (dyspepsia) and is approved by the German Commission E, which examines the safety and efficacy of herbs.
Muscle and joint pain
Applied topically (to the skin), rosemary oil is sometimes used to treat muscle pain and arthritis and improve circulation. It is approved by the German Commission E for these purposes.
Historically, rosemary has been used to stimulate hair growth. In one study of 84 people with alopecia areata (a disease in which hair falls out, generally in patches), those who massaged their scalps with rosemary and other essential oils (including lavender, thyme, and cedarwood) every day for 7 months experienced significant hair regrowth compared to those who massaged their scalps without the essential oils. But the study was not well designed, and it is impossible to say whether rosemary caused the hair growth.
Neutralize food-borne pathogens
Several studies show that rosemary inhibits food-borne pathogens like Listeria monocytogenes, B. cereus, and S. aureus.
Improve memory or concentration
Rosemary is often used in aromatherapy to increase concentration and memory, and to relieve stress. One study suggests that rosemary, combined with other pleasant-smelling oils, may lower cortisol levels and help reduce anxiety. Another study found that the use of lavender and rosemary essential oil sachets reduced test taking stress in graduate nursing students.
Several studies suggest that rosemary extract may inhibit tumor growth by preventing cancerous cells from replicating. One study found that rosemary, on its own and in combination with curcumin, helped prevent breast cancer. A second study found similar effects of rosemary on colon cancer cells.” Article here
So, you see, Rosemary should really be in your garden or at least in a pot on your patio!
I am also sure that you understand that I am NOT a doctor nor have I tried to diagnose or treat any of your ailments.
There’s a fungus among us and I don’t mean mushrooms.
If you have attempted to grow any sort of vegetation for any amount of time, you have probably dealt with an unfriendly fungus. While a great many varieties of fungus are essential to plant life and a great many others are neither good or bad, there are a few bad varieties and they really cause problems.
Before moving to the island, the only real battle I had with fungus was black-spot on the roses and powdery mildew on my veggies. But, one summer in a tropical setting and I have had a crash course in fungus!
As I will chat about later, watering the soil is very important. One day, only one day, I got lazy and got out the hose and sprayed everything down instead of using the watering can. JUST ONE DAY! And, I even did it in the morning. BUT, in 72 hours, my Belinda’s dream roses were covered in black spot. Lesson Learned- water the soil NOT the plant.
Fungi live in the soil, on our skin, in our house, basically any and everywhere. The problems arise when conditions are just right, and the fungi populations begin to multiply at breakneck speeds. When this happens, the host of the fungi population will be destroyed- this means your vinca will wilt and turn to goop, or your zucchini will disappear under gray fuzz or your rose bush will turn brown and yellow before becoming naked stems. Or, all of the above if its are really bad day.
In the garden, this hyper-growth of fungi will lead to plant death or really fabulous compost. The problem is when the garden beds are turned to compost piles because the fungus took over where it did not belong.
So, instead of focusing on how to kill the fungus, we should focus on how to prevent the colonies from getting out of hand. The environment is what determines if the fungus will thrive or simply exist and not cause problems. As gardeners, there are several things we can do to set out gardens up for the best possible outcomes.
Soil heath is essential for any aspect of plant life. A plant cannot thrive without healthy soil. Soil health will also determine the health of a plant’s immune system. Very few of us have perfect soil and even if you do, if you constantly take from the soil and never put back, you won’t have healthy soil for long. By amending the soil, you can put back into the soil.
Essential amendments are organic compost, green sand, lava sand, and rock phosphate. For a deeper look at fixing you soil, click here!
Choosing the right plant for an area is essential to success as a gardener. A plant that loves the sun will not survive a shady spot and a shade loving plant will die in the full sun. This seems like it shouldn’t need to be said, but I deal with folks everyday who just can’t accept the fact that a rose bush won’t bloom in a backyard that gets only 3 hours of sun per day. Plants have DNA and we can’t simply rewire them just because we want it that way.
Also, if there is a disease resistant variety- choose that variety. There are a lot of hybrids out there and some are bred to be resistant to fungal diseases. If those are available to you, then choose that plant.
If a plant is in a poor location or in poor soil it will be stressed. If a plant is stressed it will be compromised. A compromised plant will not have an immune system that can fight off disease.
More damage is done by overwatering than by underwatering. Fungus thrives in warm, wet conditions.
If you are keeping the soil soaked you are laying out a welcome mat for fungus.
If you water at night, you are laying out a welcome mat for fungus.
If you are spraying your foliage instead of watering the soil, you are laying out a welcome mat for fungus.
Do you see a pattern?
Fungi LOVE moisture.
So, water in the early morning so that what water does get on the leaves and foliage can dry. One inch of water once a week is sufficient water, except in times of high heat and drought, then water twice per week. If at all possible, water the soil, not the foliage.
One thing that a human cannot control is the weather. If you live in an area that is high humidity and warm, fungus is something with which you will battle. Galveston Island is my home and this year has been crazy with the fungal shenanigans.
Organic controls of fungus are fairly limited, but what is available is effective. Sulfur and copper are excellent fungicides but they can only be applied with the temperature is below 85′. Bicarbonates can be used at anytime. In an effort to be proactive, I spray a bicarbonate weekly, before signs and symptoms appear. For an indepth look at fungicides, read this article.
Don’t let challenges keep you from gardening- educate yourself and keep planting.
“Regard your soil as the living, breathing entity it is- to be nurtured, fed and sustained.” – Peter Fossel
Soil is the Soul of your Garden!
It doesn’t matter what you plant or where you bought your plants or seeds, if your soil isn’t healthy- you will not be successful. Soil may not be very exciting to a new gardener, but once you really understand the complexity and the vitality of healthy soil – you will look at soil with new eyes!
Micronutrients and Microbial Organisms are essential to healthy soil!
Microbes- the unseen, unsung heroes of soil and organic gardening. They serve first to break down organic matter into a form plants can use, and then to improve the soils structure and the ability of plants to draw sustenance from it.
Micronutrients are those minerals and elements that are not needed in great quantities but are essential for plants to be healthy.
Where to begin?
The first step in bringing your soil into the best shape possible and into a state of high fertility is to know what type of soil you currently have.
A soil test is important to do in the very beginning. Once you have a base line, deciding on amendments will be easier. After the initial soil test, it isn’t necessary to keep having the soil tested- the plants will tell you if the soil is lacking.
To do a soil test- get a sample bag from the county extension office or from the lab that you want to use. With a bucket in hand, dig 6-8 inches down with a small shovel and place the soil in the bucket. Take samples from all over the area you are testing. Even on a small piece of property, the soil can vary from on area to another. Collecting from multiple points will give you a better picture. Stir all the soil together and then fill the bag and mail it to the specified address and follow the lab’s instructions.
When the results come back- take the results to your county extension office and the agent can help you read and analyze the test results.
Now, it is important to understand that you don’t have to have a soil test to begin improving your soil. The following amendments are perfect for every garden and cannot be over used as they are organic in nature and mild in their effects.
But, you do need to look at your soil and determine what kind you have:
Or a combination of these types
Regardless of what you grow- fruits, herbs, vegetables, or flowers- it all starts with the soil. The plants will only be as healthy as the soil that their roots are anchored in. Therefore, it is imperative that attention is given to the health of the soil.
Key elements are:
Friability– the texture of the soil. It should be soft and crumbly- think potting soil.
Most people do not begin with perfect soil of just the right texture but that does not mean you cannot be successful at gardening.
If your soil is too coarse (sandy) texture will be improved by adding compost and other organic materials such as mulch, leaves, etc.
If your soil is too fine (clay), which causes it to be compacted’ then it is going to need organic matter and other amendments such as green sand or expanded shale to loosen up the soil.
The Ph Balance- the Ph balance in the soil should be slightly alkaline. If the soil is acidic the Ph can be adjusted by adding lime. However, I don’t think this point is worth getting worked up over unless you are growing a plant or crop that is extremely picky. There are also many acid loving plants out there. So, know what you are dealing with but then focus on using what you have versus feeling like you must change your soil. If a soil is alive with microbial activity, plants can tolerate a Ph balance that is not quite right.
Drainage- this is more of a location issue. If the location of your garden does not have good drainage you can fix this with using raised beds. Sandy soils tend to drain too fast and clay soils tend to not drain fast enough.
If you have sandy soils you need to slow the drainage down by incorporating organic matter into the soil. Any type of compost will work. Compost acts like a sponge and holds onto water which helps correct the problem of drainage with sand.
Clay soils do not drain fast enough, so incorporating expanded shale or rock phosphate, you can spread the molecules out and allow the water to flow through. Clay is very nutrient dense, so if you can solve the drainage issue, you can grow beautiful things in clay.
5 Key Amendments for Organic Soil
Organic Matter– compost, manure, etc
Lava Sand- The sand-sized and smaller waste material left from lava gravel mining is an excellent, high-energy soil amendment material.
Rock Phosphate– a finely ground rock powder, contains minerals and will enhance the soil texture
Greensand- a material from seabed deposits, contains minerals and improves soil texture.
Limestone (Lime)- rock powder used to sweeten acidic soils
Micronutrients- these may be missing from your soil but are essential for crops and blooms. Magnesium found in Epsom Salt is a good example.
Organic matter from a wide array of sources and greensand will ensure that you have micronutrients galore.
Worm castings have been long known to be a highly fertile component of organic soil. Compared to the average soil, worm castings are said to contain 5 times more nitrogen, 7 times more phosphorus and 11 times more potassium. They are rich in humic acids and improve the structure of the soil as well.
How To Apply- use these methods with any of the amendments
Top-Dress- this is simply sprinkling the amendments over the top of the soil. This method would be used in existing beds.
Working It In- In using this method, you would apply the amendments to the soil and then turn the soil over. The soil can be turned over by hand with a shovel or by machine such as a tiller. This method would be used in new beds or in row cropping.
Compost! LOTS of it- This is one of the best fertilizers you can use. If you have your own compost pile then it is free- which makes it even better!
Animal Manures– any animal that chews its cud produces manure that can be added directly to the garden. This would include Llamas, goats, and sheep. Other animal manures need to be composted first for about 6 months then added to the garden. Rabbits are an exception to this rule, their manure can be added directly to the garden.
Carl Poole Fertilizers- this is a good company that makes some great products.
These should be applied in September thru November for Spring and Summer gardens and June – August for Fall Gardening. Top dressing is the best way as tilling can disturb soil biology. The less disturbance the better. Most beds are still in good shape from the summer garden and just need to be cleaned up and top dressed.
Bringing soil to a point of great texture and high fertility is an ongoing process- once you have achieved beautiful soil, you will still need to maintain it with these same amendments and fertilizers.
Even though your plants will tell you if something is wrong, don’t wait for a struggling plant to address the soil. Make amending the soil part of your garden schedule and then happy plants will greet you all year long!
This past year has been one of great transition. Two daughters, the ag loving ones, moved out completely and one got married. I tool a full time job outside of the home and that was quite a change. I had it in my head that maybe the season of the farm animals had past. We would just have a few chickens and that would be that.
I told myself that it was okay, in due time the farm animals would come back but to just be happy with so little responsibility. No wondering during a storm if everyone was okay, no fighting a biting North wind to feed and water, no more middle of the night checks because someone made a “funny” noise in the barn. Just enjoy a good night’s sleep.
After all, we only have one acre and I don’t drive an F250 anymore and we don’t have a livestock trailer- you see it’s just not that season.
But, the problem you see, is that once you have had the experience of seeing goats born in the middle of the night, or had the pleasure of a bottle calf thrive as you care for them, or tasted the meat and eggs from animals raised with love and good food- you just can’t forget it or leave it.
So, two weekends ago my husband and I had planned a date night in the city- Dallas, TX to be exact- complete with a hotel and nice dinner and nice breakfast the next morning. So he calls me the day before and asks if I want the night in the city or if I want to go to the family auction that sells small livestock…
I choose the livestock auction. So our date consisted of sitting in bleachers bidding on chickens, quail, dairy calves and the like.
I had more fun than I have had in many moons!
This is what makes my heart happy. I have just come to accept that glamorous for me is a pair of great fitting bluejeans and Ariat boots. I have dreams of perfect makeup and hair with done nails- but in the end, this farm and the animals that call it home bring me such joy that I just can’t escape it- irregardless of the work it entails.
Meet 46 & 48- two bull dairy calves. These fellows are riding great in the back of my Nissan Pathfinder- on cardboard of course. For those of you who have ever transported cattle of any kind know how they like to poop in transit- but God was smiling on me and nobody pooped. Had they relieved themselves the cardboard would have made no difference and my Pathfinder would have never been the same.
We have a trio of Mille Fluer D’Ulcce and three Rhode Island Reds. The Rhode Island Reds are already laying large brown eggs for us. The Mille Fluer are bantams and have their own precious little house that I will show you latter.
This little lady – a Satin Doe- got to ride in the front seat as I sat in the back to prevent the calves from crawling all over the SUV. Not pictured are 8 quail.
We didn’t have enough cages, but not to fear, the auction sells those, too. Really, it can be a dangerous place.
More information and better pictures are coming as I talk about the roles of the animals on such a small holding and how we do buy and have good success from auctions.